Of the three large European cities Patty and I visited on our recent trip, we liked Vienna best, by far. It is clean, partly because all modes of public transportation are powered by electricity; it is sprawling, but manageable precisely because of the pubic transportation network; and it is loaded with great museums, performance halls and other outstanding institutions.
The other two large cities we visited — Budapest and Prague — are quite different, but powerful in their distinctive ways. Patty likened Budapest to New York City because it’s rough around the edges and not particularly clean. But it projects vibrancy and grit. The experience of World War II, when Budapest incurred significant damage and about 300,000 Hungarian soldiers and more than 600,000 civilians died (including at least 450,000 Jews), imbued Hungarians with grit and resilience.
Prague, on the other hand, was largely spared during World War II and is a picture-book city in some respects, notably with its trove of architectural gems and outdoor gathering places, like Old Town Square.
Both countries were part of the Soviet bloc until 1989.
With that, here’s the second round of winter vacation photos, these from Budapest and Prague…
Keleti palyaudvar, Budapest’s main train station
This was the first time I’ve ever been scared on escalators. Steepest I’ve ever seen, by far. When going down, I’d position myself directly behind someone and look down at my feet so I couldn’t see the angle and length of the descent.
“Castle Hill” affords a breathtaking view of the Szechnyi Chain Bridge (spanning the Danube) and the eastern or “Pest” side of the city. That’s the Basilica of St. Stephen in the background.
The Hungarian Parliament building, an outstanding example of the Gothic Revival style. It’s the largest building in Hungary.
Statue of Prince Eugene of Savoy, a Hapsburg hero who wiped out the last Turkish army at the Battle of Zenta in 1697. (The Hapsburgs were so grateful they built him a palace in Vienna.)
Five-hundred-year-old Matthias Church
One of the works of art displayed in the church — a partial reproduction, in marble, of a bronze called “Christ on the Cross,” by Janos Fadrusz
The courtyard outside the church, after a light rain
We stayed at an apartment a block off this major thoroughfare.
The lobby of one of Budapest’s famous bath houses, Gellert Baths. (I took a long bath in one of the pools and emerged with all my physical problems cured. Oddly, my knees started hurting again as soon as I went down the next flight of stairs.)
The Great Synagogue, also known as the Dohany Street Synagogue, the largest in the world, outside of New York City.
The synagogue incurred significant damage from aerial raids during the Nazi Occupation and especially during the Siege of Budapest. Wikipedia says that during the Communist era, the damaged structure again became a prayer house for the “much-diminished Jewish community.” It was restored between 1991 and 1998, partly with the help of a $5 million contribution from fragrance and cosmetics baroness Estee Lauder.
Where the Dohany Street Synagogue was built in 1859, the “Old-New Synagogue” was built in 1270. It is the oldest synagogue in eastern Europe and perhaps all of Europe.
Our last stop was Prague, where we stayed in a fifth-floor apartment above this bakery. I spent a considerable number of Czech crowns at Paneria.
Across the street, a Metro (underground) station contributed to a steady flow of foot traffic.
This is the original and historic part of the Prague train station. The newer part is as plain as could be.
Patty and I at the historic station
Perhaps Prague’s most famous landmark, the Charles Bridge. It was started in 1357 under King Charles IV and finished in the beginning of the 15th century. Until 1841, it was the only bridge crossing the Vltava River, connecting Prague Castle on the west side and Old Town on the east.
Locals and tourists alike stream across the bridge every day.
St. Vitus Cathedral is adjacent to Prague Castle and, from this vantage point, behind the castle wall.
The charming and irresistible Old Town Square
The famous Old town Square astronomical clock, with moving side figures that put on a little show at the top of each hour. (I still don’t understand how to interpret the clock.) The day we were there, a huge crowd cheered after the 5 p.m. “performance.”
Prague’s Municipal House is a stellar example of the Art Nouveau style of architecture. It opened in 1912 and is used today as a concert hall, ballroom and civic building. It also includes cafes and restaurants…
…like the Ameriky (American) Bar, on the first floor.
Our group — consisting, from left, of Charlie, Paul, Edie and Patty — found it to be a very sobering environment…You have to trust me, though, when I say this group was a lot of fun.
And then…poof! It was over, and we were at the Prague airport Saturday morning, getting ready to come home…If you’d have shot a canon down this broad corridor that morning, you would have killed only one person.
Jim:
More wonderful pictures. You have given us lots of history along with your beautiful photos. Many thanks,
Laura
Thanks, Laura. Taking the photos and then having to do some research to adequately explain them helped me focus on the significance of some of these places. If not for the picture taking, I’d tend to just shuffle along from one place to the next, not bothering to home in on the historical significance of these places and tourist sights…As you and I are acutely aware, reporting is a tremendously educational endeavor.
…Say, if you’re having trouble sleeping (noting the time of your comment), I still have several Ambien pills left over from the trip. Three of the four of us were taking those at any given time. They work and don’t leave you with brain fog.)
I’m itching to move about this big world!!! Great photos, insight, history, and detail. Glad the travels went well and you’re back in KC to push for a single terminal airport and maybe a new escalator!
I think you’re on to something, Lisa…If I can’t convince Kansas Citians to vote for a new single terminal, maybe I can bring them around to voting for nice, flat, moving walkways between terminals B and C. The campaign slogan will be something like, “Keep Kansas City Moving Laterally!”
Enjoyed your tour, Jim!
Thanks, Terry. I hope you can get back to Europe at least once more.
Beautiful pictures Jim. We have been to these three cities and loved them. Did you go on the nighttime cruise in Budapest, by chance? That city is indeed gritty in the daytime but a jewel at night by boat.
Thanks, Gloria and Gerald. We didn’t take a cruise in Budapest. Our unofficial tour guide, Rick Steves, didn’t mention the night cruises and of the cruises in general he said: “They’re scenic and relaxing, but you might spend half the time waiting to go through the locks, and the commentary is mediocre.” Hardly a resounding recommendation. Wish we would have talked to you before we went!
Jim, great insight. Don’t wait 50 more years however
Thanks so much, Jim, for the mini-tour of Prague. I’ve never gotten there, but your pictures are great. I recommend reading Madeleine Albright’s book, Prague Winter. During WWII Albright’s father represented the Czechoslovakian government in London.
I’ll get that book from the library, Peg. I’m currently reading James Fenimore Cooper’s “Afloat and Ashore,” a musty, old copy of which I “borrowed” from our apartment in Prague. I had finished reading Jane Leavy’s biography of Mickey Mantle and had nothing to read for the last day or so and for the long trip home. The bookcase in the apartment had a weird assortment of books; the one by Cooper was one of the few in English, so I appropriated it.
Wonderful photos, Fitz! Budapest was recently a finalist for the 2024 Summer Olympics but recently withdrew their bid. It’s now down to LA or Paris. It will be awarded later this year.
On another note, there was a quite a gathering of former Star folks on February 24 as we paid tribute to Rick Alm at Breit’s Stein & Deli in KCK. We were joined by one current Star staffer and a few non-journalists, including a former mayor, a frequent commenter on this blog, and the engineer who helped Rick and the rest of the Star staff uncover the truth behind the Hyatt skywalk collapse. A wonderful and bittersweet evening it was. Cold too.
I’m sorry I had to miss the party, Mike…Congratulations on your role in helping make it happen. It was a well-deserved send-off to a unique journalist.
I didn’t realize Budapest had been in the hunt for the Olympics. I’m sure the city could have done a good job; it’s a powerful city.
Glad you took the time to embrace the history and architecture of all those wonderful buildings. Is it more reasonable to go during the winter and how did you find the fifth floor apartment to stay in?
My kudos also to Mike for the Alm tribute.
One caveat. All those side effects they list regarding Ambien are real. I had a very bad experience with it when i was in for my bypass and my nurse claimed she had had so many patients freak out on it that she hated to use it anymore.
Aribnb…When you’re traveling with a group of four (five the days Charlie was with us), it’s more economical to go the apartment than the hotel route. You get a common living area and kitchen along with the requisite separate bedrooms. We stayed in apartments in all four cities. The only time we had a problem was the last night, in Prague, when a loud buzzing and riveting sound commenced at 4 a.m. It sounded like some kind of alarm but turned out to be the heating system — radiators clacking. We got a head start on getting to the airport that day.
…On the Ambien, I guess I’d better stop prescribing (although I have tremendous medical instincts) and leave it to the MD’s.